Taking care of a new puppy
Kit List
- Bowls
- Collar
- Harness- trainers and vets alike recommend Perfect fit or Ruffwear as they do not impede the movement of the shoulders or injury the neck https://ruffwear.co.uk/collections/dog-harnesses?utm_campaign=pmax_uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6IeZrpvPgAMVRsDtCh24VgXmEAAYAiAAEgI00fD_BwE
https://perfect-fit-dog-harness.com/harness.html
- Lead- Not an extending lead unless instructed by your dog trainer
- Bed
crate/cage
- Food- You will need to continue with Royal Canin Puppy mini for at least 2 weeks before swapping, should yo wish. More info below. https://www.royalcanin.com/uk/shop/mini-puppy-3000
- Non-slip rugs/matts if you have laminate or wood flooring. As the puppies joints are developing they need sure footing not a slippery surface or they won't develop properly. You'll want to keep the rugs and runners for future use, for example if the puppy suffers a leg injury or when they get old and arthritic. Pack expensive rugs away for a about a year, puppies love to chew!
- Toys
Vaccinations
In the UK the usual vaccination schedule is two or three vaccinations 2-4 weeks apart, usually 8 to 12 weeks of age.
The diseases in the core vaccination are Distemper, Parvovirus, Hepatitis and Leptospirosis. Lepto vaccination comes in two formulations, L2 and L4. I cannot recommend L4 strongly enough compared to L2.
Additional vaccinations are for Kennel cough and rabies.
The advantage of a second vaccination for DHP at 10 weeks of age is that you can start taking your puppy for walkies soo er which is better for socialisation.
However having the second vaccination for DHP at 12 weeks is better at providing longer term immunity. Have this discussion with your vet. They might recommend a repeat puppy vaccination course if they do not stock a compatible vaccination brand to the first one your puppy has had.
The risk of adverse reaction to a vaccination is very very low and the risk of harm from the diseases mentioned is high, especially parvovirus.
Parasite treatment
If you are staying in the South West of England it is highly likely your vet will recommend monthly treatment for fleas with a product that also guards against lungworm. You will not know your dog has lungworm until it is too late and it's quite regional so please follow your vets recommendation on this.
Worming tablets will be against round worms and tapeworms and the schedule of treatment can vary depending on the practice and the flea product used.
Food
The puppies have been weaned onto Royal Canin Mother and baby food for mini dogs adult weight up to 10kg. It is recommended you continue with the same food for 1-2 weeks before gradually changing onto your food of choice.
I have no particular recommendation other than feed the best (usually the most expensive!) food you can afford while the puppy is growing so for the first year. After that you can change to a less expensive complete food is you prefer. Most commercial dog foods have a reasonable minimum standard although like with a lot of things the food you find in the supermarket is more like us eating cheap ready meals compared to a premium brand.
If you chose raw food then please look for a commercial brand that industrially freezes the food to minimise risk of salmonella and campylobacter. You can definitely catch these unpleasant diseases from your dog, aside from the very real risk your dog will also fall ill. Natures Menu does some good educational videos on the dos and don'ts of raw feeding.
Ad a general rule of thumb a chew or bone should dent when you put your finger nail in it (fyi a bone doesn't dent)
If it doesn't there's a big risk of damage to the dog's teeth. I've also removed quite a few bones over the years from dogs throats and intestines so please just be mindful.
They do not need milk when they go to their new homes.
Exercise
Before the vaccinations are complete you can take you puppies for walkies in your arms. this will help them get used to cars and strangers. Please practice lead walking around the house during this time.
A week after their second DHP they will be able to go for walks on the pavement but not in parks and fields where dogs most often will 'go'
1-2 Weeks after their final Lepto vaccination the puppies can go for more adventurous walks in woods, parks and near lakes and rivers.
Training
Please make use of the Puppy Pod or other online puppy training service in the first few weeks.
In person puppy training is a really good idea too as they puppy gets to socialise with others of the same age as well.
Please only use reward based training, never anything that involves forcing you puppy to sit or telling them off which might include a lead jerk or training discs.
Spaniels are usually highly motivated to please their humans and rewarding them frequently for doing the desired behaviour and ignoring the unwanted will get you a long way. Sometimes you will be rewarding them for dong nothing or just glancing at you! A glance is a desired behaviour that will set you up for success in the future, definitely encourage it as frequently as possible.
When out on walks you can frequently reward the puppy for looking at new things whatever their response to it was.
There is lots of information on a Facebook group called Dog Training Advice and Support. I can invite you to the group via Facebook if you'd like. There's a whole section on which harness to buy, toilet training, recall training and other immediately relevant guides.

If you are having any problems with training or behaviour then please get in contact with an APBC registered trainer or behaviourist sooner rather than later. It might be covered by your insurance.
www.apbc.org.uk
If they start talking about pack theory or using dominance walk the other way and find a different trainer. The scientists who wrote pack theory about alpha and beta dogs, rescinded their theories but they cannot unrpint the books they wrote so it still gets used!
Sleeping arrangements
The puppies will be crate trained however they are used to other dogs always being there so going to a new home is a massive change for them. My personal preference is to sleep with the dog at first then gradually move away. Research has shown that if the puppies needs are met (and ultimately they are a social animal) then they will grow up more confident that if they are forced to cry it out alone. There is a good guide in the above group.
Legal stuff
By law the puppy must be microchipped and the details kept up to date. The dog must also wear a tag with your details on it when in public.
You cannot re-sell the puppy by law until they are over 6 months of age. I'd very much prefer you contact me first should your circumstances change and your dog needs a new home.
By law your dog must be under control when in public and not cause
Neutering
Age of neutering will depend a little on your personal circumstances for example other dogs in the family so please chat with your vet.
Ideally most dogs are neutered after puberty now but for some people still choose to neuter at 6 months.
If your puppy shows any early signs of being nervous for example barking at new things, it is advisable to speak to a dog trainer before neutering and waiting until after puberty if you can.
As a general rule of thumb for a female dog if you wish to reduce the chances of mammary cancer later in life you should neuter after their first season or second at the latest. Ideally neutering is 4 months after a season (based on research suggesting less than 3 months after a season can have adverse long term behavioural consequences). Neutering in females will remove the risk of deadly pyometra greatly at any age.
One study looked at age of neutering in relation to long term health in relation to cancers and joint disease.. For Cavaliers there is no change in future health but for cocker spaniels and miniature poodles the study indicated that waiting until a year of age mitigates any future health concerns caused by early neutering.
The Puppy Contact
Why I use The Puppy Contract
The purpose of The Puppy Contract is to give you all the information you need when buying your puppy to help you ensure they have had the best start in life. It also shows the care and attention we have put in to breeding your puppy. It is a legally binding contract signed by us, the breeder, and you, the buyer, that contains details about:
Your puppy's Mum Your puppy's Dad Your puppy
The Puppy Contract can be used for all types of dog - pedigree, crossbreed or mixed breed - and by anyone selling a puppy. The contents of the contract are written to give you a full understanding of your puppy's life so far when you buy her/him e.g. the health of the parents and what vaccinations the puppy or their parents have had. As it is a legally binding document, all the information contained must be accurate.
It is important that you understand the information you are given and feel confident to ask us questions about your puppy before you buy him/her. The more knowledge you have about the puppy you are buying, the better, as this will help you buy a healthy, happy puppy and give them the best start in life by meeting all of their needs from day one.
When you sign the contract you are committing to meeting the needs of your new pet throughout its lifetime. We will be happy to provide you with any information you need about your new puppy’s needs.
Useful information and guidance on how to use and understand The Puppy Contract can be found online at: www.puppycontract.org.uk.
There you will also find:
10 steps to buying a puppy
How to spot a puppy dealer
What are the laws for puppy breeding? Links to useful information
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